How to Water a Kokedama: The Soak Method Explained

Watering a kokedama is one of those things that feels mysterious at first — there's no pot, no drainage hole, no obvious way to pour water in from the top. But once you understand the logic behind it, it becomes one of the most satisfying parts of kokedama care. The process is called the soak method, and it's far simpler than it sounds.

Why You Can't Water a Kokedama Like a Normal Plant

With a potted plant, the usual approach is to pour water into the soil until it drains from the bottom. The pot contains everything; the soil stays in place; excess water escapes through holes.
A kokedama has no pot. The root ball is exposed, held together by the outer fiber wrap and the soil mixture inside it. If you try to water it from the top — pouring or spraying water onto the surface — you'll dampen the exterior but often fail to hydrate the core of the ball where the roots actually are. The water beads off the outer surface without penetrating.
The soak method solves this by submerging the entire ball in water, allowing it to absorb moisture from all sides and throughout its depth. It's a much more effective and complete way to water — and it's also how many plants are watered in Japanese gardening traditions.

The Soak Method: Step by Step

What you need: A bowl, sink, or container large enough to fully submerge your kokedama. Room-temperature water — cold water can shock some plants, and very warm water should also be avoided.
Step 1: Fill your container with water. It should be deep enough that your kokedama can be fully submerged. Room temperature is ideal. If you're using tap water and you're in an area with heavily chlorinated supply, leaving the water to sit for an hour or so before use will allow the chlorine to dissipate — though for most plants this is a nice-to-have rather than a requirement.
Step 2: Submerge the kokedama. Lower the wrapped root ball into the water. You'll notice bubbles rising from the ball — this is air escaping from the soil as water begins to penetrate. This is normal and a good sign: it means water is actively reaching the interior.
Step 3: Leave it to soak. Most kokedamas need between 10 and 20 minutes to fully hydrate. Smaller balls may be done in 5-10 minutes; larger, denser balls may need 20-25. The ball is ready when the bubbles have mostly stopped, which indicates the air pockets inside have been replaced by water.
Step 4: Lift it out and let it drain. Remove the kokedama from the water and hold it over the sink or container for a minute or two, allowing excess water to drain away. A well-watered kokedama should feel noticeably heavier than a dry one — this weight difference is one of the most reliable ways to gauge whether it's been properly hydrated.
Step 5: Return it to its display position. If your kokedama sits on a surface, you may want to place it on a small dish or tray to catch any residual drips over the next hour or so.

How Often Should You Water?

This is the question everyone asks, and the honest answer is: it depends. The frequency varies based on the size of the kokedama, the type of plant, the season, and the conditions in your home.
As a general guide for most indoor kokedamas:
During spring and summer (active growing season), most kokedamas need watering every 3-5 days. In warm rooms or in particularly sunny spots, they may need it every 2-3 days.
During autumn and winter (slower growth, lower light, cooler temperatures), the frequency drops. Every 7-10 days is typical for many plants during winter months.
But rather than following a fixed schedule, it's better to learn to read your kokedama directly. Plants vary; homes vary; seasons vary. A schedule that works in July may drown your plant in January.

How to Tell When Your Kokedama Needs Water

The most reliable method is the weight test. Lift your kokedama regularly — when it's well-watered and when you think it might be getting dry. You'll quickly develop an intuitive sense of what "full" feels like versus what "ready to water" feels like. A dry kokedama will feel noticeably light, almost hollow.
Other signs that your kokedama needs water:
The outer fiber feels dry and very light. Coconut fiber should not feel soggy for long periods, but when the ball is ready for water the exterior usually feels lighter, less cool, and less substantial in the hand.
The leaves look slightly droopy or limp. This is the plant telling you it's under stress from lack of water. Act quickly — a wilted plant can usually recover if watered promptly.
The ball feels very light. As mentioned above, the weight test is your best friend.
You can also push a finger gently into the outer surface: if the soil underneath feels dry and crumbly, it's time to water.

Signs of Overwatering

It's also possible to overwater a kokedama, and in practice this is probably the more common mistake among new kokedama owners. Signs that your kokedama is getting too much water include:
Yellowing leaves — particularly lower or older leaves turning yellow and dropping. Some natural leaf drop is normal, but consistent yellowing often points to root issues caused by overwatering.
A damp or musty smell — a sour or unpleasant smell suggests the ball isn't drying out enough between waterings and anaerobic conditions are developing in the core.
Soft or squishy areas in the ball — the soil and outer wrap should have some firmness. If areas feel soft or mushy, the interior may be staying too wet.
If you suspect overwatering, simply extend the time between waterings and ensure your kokedama is in a spot with good air circulation so it can dry out properly.

Should You Mist Your Kokedama?

Misting can support humidity-sensitive plants, but it doesn't replace soaking. MORI kokedamas use coconut fiber rather than live moss, so misting is not about keeping the surface green. It is only a light humidity support for the plant and surrounding air when indoor conditions are very dry.
A light mist every day or two during dry winter periods can help some tropical species. Use a fine spray bottle and avoid saturating the exterior.
Some plants, however, don't appreciate water on their leaves — Ficus can be somewhat sensitive to water spots. For these, mist the surrounding air rather than the foliage directly.

Water Quality

Most tap water is perfectly fine for kokedamas. If you're in a very hard water area (high mineral content), you may notice white deposits building up on the outer fiber over time. These are mineral salts from the water. In this case, using collected rainwater or filtered water is a worthwhile switch.
Water temperature matters more than people realise. Cold water — particularly in winter — can stress roots that are used to warmer indoor temperatures. Room temperature water is always the safest choice.

A Note on Seasonal Adjustments

Your kokedama's water needs will shift through the year, and staying responsive to those changes is part of caring for it well.
In summer, growth is active, water consumption is high, and evaporation from the outer surface is faster. Water more frequently and keep a closer eye on the weight of the ball.
In winter, most houseplants slow their growth significantly. Their water requirements drop accordingly. Continuing to water at the same frequency as summer is a common cause of winter root rot. Step back, let the ball dry out a little more between waterings, and your plant will be much happier.

Watering a kokedama properly is one of the most important skills you can develop as a kokedama owner. Once it becomes instinctive — once you can pick up the ball and know immediately whether it needs water — you'll find the whole relationship with the plant becomes much more rewarding.

Care for a MORI Ficus Kokedama? See our full Ficus care guide for plant-specific watering advice.